Hardwood Installation Guide

INSTALLATION IS SIMPLE! 1. Visualize your lay out 2. Start from the center of the room 3. Work your way out 4. Make your cuts for along the wall 5. Add your trim pieces Mirth Studio planks are ready to walk on as soon as the glue is dry. Don’t forget that it is important to take note of the direction the pattern should be installed! Our tiles can be installed temporarily over an existing subfloor or permanently glued down.

FLOATING INSTALLATION : (Floating installation is an option, but may be difficult. Please consult with a professional to ensure correct installation) As a first step, the installer or homeowner must decide which direction the planks should run based on pattern selection. Planks are normally laid either parallel or diagonal to the longest wall in the room. Most installers will snap a chalk-line down the middle of the room and work out from this center line to the perimeter walls. Do not use painters tape on the flooring as it can affect the topcoat. A straight board nailed down against this centerline can be used as a firm, straight base to begin working. Alternatively, the first planks installed can be attached with double stick tape as not to damage the floors underneath. It is best to secure the first planks as a starting point to work out from.

After laying the first half of the room, the board should be removed so that the other half of the room can be completed. It is advisable to dry lay a few rows of the tiles to confirm your directional layout decision for pattern and your working line. Adjustments of the working line may be necessary to ensure it is square to the room. Starting from the center and working outwards, keep the planks parallel to the wall and adjoined in a snug manner. Lastly, measure and make your cuts to the remaining planks to ensure they will fit tightly to the wall. To push the planks together tap against the edge using a hammer and wood or a rubber tapping block. Never tap directly against the edge of the plank with a metal head.

Add your trim pieces.

If transitioning from another room you will need a 1/2 " transition strip. If desired, an underlay can be put down prior to installation but it is not necessary.

GLUE DOWN INSTALLATION (RECOMMENDED): For a larger space or permanent installation, follow the same directions as for the floating floor but glue each individual plank with an adhesive that’s compatible with engineered flooring.

Use the trowel recommended by the adhesive manufacturer since tooth size is important for best adherence to the sub-floor. In most cases this will be 1/4” x 1/8”, but always adhere to the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions.

It is advisable to dry lay a few rows of wide planks to first confirm your directional layout of the pattern and your working line before gluing down the floor. Do not use painters tape on the flooring as it can affect the topcoat. Adjustment of the working line may be necessary to ensure they are square to the room. Allow for adequate cross ventilation when working with flooring adhesive. Snap a chalk line down the middle of the room. Work out from this center line. Follow adhesive instructions regarding proper set time (if any) before a xing planks. With a trowel at a 45-degree angle, spread as much adhesive as can be covered by wide planks in one hour or as recommended by the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions. Once adhesive has set per instructions, lay the first row of planks butted up against your straight starting board. Continue laying flooring until adhesive is covered with planks.

Be careful not to move the installed planks on the wet adhesive. Immediately remove any excess adhesive that comes in contact with the wide plank surface by using a damp cloth or manufacturer's adhesive remover.


Glue Down Installation Subfloors:

WOOD FLOORS SHOULD BE: ● Dry and well-secured, with a moisture content under 12% ● Subfloor should be screwed down every 6 inches along the joist to avoid squeaking ● Leave a 1/8” gap around perimeter ● Level by sanding or grinding down high spots and filling in low spots with an underlayment patch as necessary ● Preferred subfloor: 3/4” CDX grade Plywood subfloor / underlayment (Exposure 1), 4” x 8” sheets or 3/4” OSB subfloor / underlayment grade, PS2 rated, sealed side down, with joist spacing of 19.2” on center or less.

CONCRETE FLOORS SHOULD BE: ● Fully cured for at least 60 days ● Installed properly with minimum 6-mil Polyfilm between concrete and ground ● Dry year-round Floating Installation Subfloors:

SUBFLOORS SHOULD BE: ● dry and level ● Planks can be installed above grade, on grade, or below grade

FINISHING THE JOB: Reinstall base and/or quarter round moldings to cover the gaps between the last plank and the wall. Install transitions pieces such as reducer strips and T-moldings as needed. For glue down installations do not allow any foot traffic or heavy furniture for at least 24 hours or as indicated by adhesive manufacturer’s instructions.

CARE AND MAINTENANCE: If cared for properly our finish is guaranteed not to fade, chip, peel or yellow. Because our hardwood planks are made from real wood, they require the same cleaning methods as any other type of engineered wood flooring. Keeping your floors swept, clean, and dry on a daily basis, this will help them to retain their original beauty and last a long time! Use either a vacuum cleaner with a soft flooring attachment, or a broom or dust mop to pick up the debris. Use a damp (not soaking) mop as needed. Our planks are water resistant but excessive water or liquid left on the planks can cause damage. Wax or oil based cleaners, harsh detergents, or steel wool should not be used to clean engineered hardwood flooring.

ADDING DURABILITY: Our hardwood comes prefinished with a commercial grade flooring finish. If you would like further protection for your floors for very high traffic areas or to refresh the finish over time, we recommend using Bona Traffic in the satin finish, which can be applied over your floors for added protection. Please visit www.bona.com for more information. The planks can be screen sanded and refinished multiple times using our recommended product.

PLEASE NOTE: When ordering Mirth Hardwood, please keep in mind that because wood is a natural product no planks will be exactly alike. We think this adds to the beauty of the floors and gives them character not found in other types of manufactured hardwood. Occasionally the variation is more obvious, and for this reason we recommend ordering a 10% overage in case some of the planks do not meet your approval. Depending on the pattern, most of our planks can be installed with the grain going in one direction or installed cross grain. Depending on the color of the plank, the grain may be more visible than other designs. Lighter colored planks show more grain. We go to great lengths to only send planks that meet our high standards, but it is important to understand that wood occasionally has flaws. Sometimes the edges are rougher than others but this is not considered a defect. If you feel you have received a defective plank, please contact us immediately and we will send you a replacement.

Do not put any type adhesive tapes on the finished surface of Mirth Studio hardwood flooring. The different adhesives in painters tape, masking tape, and translucence tape can damage the finish.